Rome Wasn’t Built for Toddlers 

Two nights, four kids, one family bike with questionable braking, and a dinner that kicked us out. Here’s how it went. 

We decided to do a quick two-night trip to Rome, because when you’re already living in Italy, it feels almost irresponsible not to at least try. 

So, Saturday morning, we loaded up four kids, skipped the scooters (bold call, correct call), and went for it. 

Getting There 

The train from Pistoia is straightforward on paper. Thirty minutes to Florence, then a high-speed train straight to Rome. We left around 10 AM and were there by 12:50 PM. 

Simple enough, except we were six people in four seats, facing each other, knees basically touching and snacks absolutely everywhere. The babies had zero interest in staying put and spent most of the ride trying to escape into the aisle. By the time we pulled into Rome, the seats looked like a snack explosion and we had not made any friends in the train car.  

But we made it. For a family of six traveling with a double-wide stroller and quick train connection, “made it in one piece” counts as a win. 

From Rome Termini we grabbed one of those big taxi vans (Uber had them within 5 minutes at all times), bench seats facing each other, which felt weirdly fancy for a ten-minute ride. No car seats required within city limits in Italy, which felt irresponsible, but, sure, fine. 

We checked into the Airbnb near the Spanish Steps early (massive win), dropped the bags, and put the babies down for naps before anyone could combust. 

Night One: The Colosseum, a Meltdown, and a Dinner Disaster 

The plan was simple: see the Colosseum from the outside, eat somewhere, survive. 

We made it there after naps and it was one of those moments where you stop and think, wow we’re actually here. Chris and I have been trying to call out “pinch me” moments during the trip because it’s so easy to be heads down managing what’s in front of us. This was certainly one of those moments.  

And then, our two-year-old lost it completely. Full meltdown. Gelato was somehow both the cause and the attempted solution. No interest in photos, the Colosseum, us, or anything really. Just sticky and emotional, directly in front of one of the most famous landmarks on earth. 

Kind of iconic, honestly. 

We pushed through, walked past the hotel where Chris and I stayed on our honeymoon (a full-circle moment we were not expecting), and found a little playground behind the Colosseum where the boys could burn off some energy. 

Then came dinner, or what was supposed to be dinner. 

I had picked a spot in the Monti neighbourhood. Charming street, outdoor seating, the boys were quietly running their Hot Wheels along the cobblestones. All good, right? 

We were immediately told, not nicely, that the kids needed to sit still in their chairs. 

We left, promptly. 

We are not in the era of our kids sitting still through a long Italian dinner after a full travel day. So we pivoted, grabbed an Uber, found something closer to the apartment, and somehow ended up eating next to a sculpture with an actual security guard watching to make sure our children didn’t destroy it. 

Quick dinner. A meltdown or two. Airbnb. Bed. 

Sunday: The Day We Got It Right 

Sunday was our only full day, so we kept expectations low and walked to Villa Borghese, about ten minutes from where we were staying. 

Best decision of the whole trip. 

Think Central Park, but in Rome. Wide open space, playgrounds, snacks everywhere (critical), and room for kids to just exist without anyone giving you a look. We stumbled onto a car show, a massive hit for our Hot Wheels crew, grabbed snacks before things started unravelling, and then discovered the playground was way farther than it looked on the map. 

So, we rented one of those old circus-style family bikes. No suspension, questionable braking, hard to get moving with our clown-car vibe.  

The two little ones sat up front, baby strapped to me, Sawyer wedged between us. Hayes protested the whole idea right up until we actually started moving. Once we got going, everyone was entertained, we were covering ground, and for the first time all weekend it felt genuinely fun. 

We found the playground, hit another area with little ride-on cars, and by lunchtime everyone was done. We walked back, got takeout, ate at the apartment, and napped. 

Sunday Afternoon: Rome on Our Own Terms 

After naps we kept it simple. Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, dinner somewhere that wouldn’t kick us out. 

Trevi was shoulder-to-shoulder packed. We took a photo and kept moving. The Pantheon, same story; beautiful, busy, not somewhere you linger with four small kids. 

But then we just wandered. And found this random piazza. Open space, outdoor tables, no cars, no stress. The kind of place you can’t really look up; you just have to find it. 

Chris and I actually sat down. Had a drink. Ordered food without rushing. 

The boys found some Italian kids and immediately started playing soccer. We bought a couple of those little pull-back cars for €5 each and those things bought us a solid hour. They’d run, come back to eat a few bites, run again. 

It was the first moment all weekend that felt easy. Really easy. 

Monday: Efficient Chaos 

We’d originally booked the 10:50 AM train home but moved it up to 9:50 AM. The plan was a proper café breakfast. The reality was grab-something-and-run. 

The high-speed train back to Florence was basically a repeat of the ride there. Six people, four seats, snacks everywhere, babies attempting to roam. Fine though, and at least it’s quick. 

Then came the connection. Seven minutes. Opposite end of the station. 

We ran. 

Made it. 

No seats on the Pistoia train, so we stood the whole 35 minutes; baby in the stroller, boys sitting on the floor like it was completely normal, everyone quietly falling apart. We walked in the door in time for naps. 

And then, I still can’t explain this, the kids asked to go to school that afternoon. Boundless Life’s World School, we’re going to need to know what magic you’re sprinkling into the day?! 

Was It Worth It? 

Yeah. It really was. 

It was loud and there were multiple meltdowns and at least two moments where we looked at each other like, what are we doing. But there were also moments of real awe, unexpected wins, and that Sunday night in the piazza where everything just clicked. 

Rome with four kids under six is not a relaxing trip. But if you go in knowing the goal isn’t a perfect vacation, just being somewhere legendary together and figuring it out, it’s actually a really good weekend. 

The biggest thing we learned: plan enough to have a starting point but hold it loosely. The moments that ended up mattering most were the ones we stumbled into. 

Practical Notes: Rome with Young Kids 

A few things worth knowing before you go: 

Getting there from Pistoia: Train to Florence (30 min), then high-speed to Rome (around 1.5 hours). Book through the Trenitalia app; QR code on your phone, no ticket machine needed. 

Getting around Rome: Big taxi vans fit a family of six. No car seat requirement within city limits. For a full day of exploring, the family bike rental at Villa Borghese is genuinely worth it. 

Where to take young kids in Rome: Villa Borghese is the answer. Playgrounds, space, snack vendors, and a car show on the right weekend. It’s the version of Rome that actually works with little kids. The Colosseum is worth it for the adults; just have your snacks and your expectations in the right order. 

Dinner with toddlers in Rome: Skip anywhere with outdoor seating that looks too nice. Wander until you find a piazza with space to move. That’s where the good evenings happen. 

The connection at Florence Santa Maria Novella: If you’re catching a Pistoia train after the high-speed, check the gap. Seven minutes sounds fine until you’re at the wrong end of the station with a stroller and four kids.